What is it that makes a person who is happily traveling along a chosen life-pathway turn 90-degrees and head off in to the unknown; a decision which would change their lives forever? Julian and Carolann Castagna were running one of Sydney’s most successful film production houses. Julian had worked in the film industry as a Film Director all his working life. Carolann was a Writer. They decided to plant a vineyard in an area of Australia they thought perfect for Syrah. They sold the house and the apartment in the city and moved into a caravan on the land: romantic for about five nights till the ants came to visit, the snakes came for a look-see. They built the winery and house out of straw-bale, learning everything on the job as they went along. The vineyard was planted in 1997 on what was previously grazing land. Beechworth as an area was still generally unrecognized but there is little doubt that within the next twenty years or so it will be seen as one of Australia’s premium wine-growing areas. Five different clones of Syrah are grown, all of which are progeny of the original 1850s stock imported into Australia from the Rhone.

Winemaker: Julian Castagna

Winery Stats

Vineyard Size: 5.5 hectares planted on a 19 hectare property
Total Production: 20,000 bottles
Farming: Biodynamic
Certification: Certified Organic & Biodynamic
Grapes Planted (Red): Syrah, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir
Grapes Planted (White): Viognier, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Riesling, Savagnin

Winery Story

Beechworth as an area was still generally unrecognized but there is little doubt that within the next twenty years or so it will be seen as one of Australia’s premium wine-growing areas. Five different clones of Syrah are grown, all of which are progeny of the original 1850s stock imported into Australia from the Rhone. Australia is one of the few places in the world where this old vine stock is still available. We are very fortunate in Australia that these early vines were not affected by phylloxera. This makes the resulting wine very special. They have been biodynamic from the very beginning. They were the first serious biodynamic vineyard in Australia. Biodynamics allows the minerality that is in this ancient granitic soil to show through in the wine. There is no doubt the old-world wines have had a great influence in creating our benchmark. Castagna makes classic old-world wine with new-world fruit.

Philosophy

The Castagna Vineyard is situated at an altitude of 500 meters, 5.5 kilometers outside the historic town of Beechworth in north-east Victoria, high in the foothills of the Australian Alps. The soil mainly consists of decomposed granitic loam with a predominance of quartz particles on a base of clay. The climate is distinctly continental with hot days and cool nights during the important part of the growing season. Castagna makes wines of terroir. Terroir is not only about soil but the whole eco-system which consists of light, heat, prevailing winds, slope of the land, length of the season and, most importantly, the organisms living and working in the soil - about a billion organisms per gram of soil. It is these micro-organisms which link the soil to the roots of the vine, strengthening and imprinting that particular soil’s authentic character. Vines, through photosynthesis, convert air, light and heat from the ethereal into the material. Air, light heat – into - taste, color aroma. The vineyard is hand-pruned, and the fruit is hand-picked. They crop at a little less than two tons per acre. The winemaking is very traditional using only their own vineyard's indigenous yeast, and that, combined with minimal interference, is the key to achieving vitality and complexity. Elevage varies between 18-20 months for the reds and slightly less for the wines using only the very best, tight-grain French oak available, about a third of which is new each year. The small portion of each vintage is aged in concrete eggs. The intention is to make, as simply as possible, wine which is an expression of the place where it is grown. The wines of Castagna are multi-awarded and are at the forefront of the new Australia.

Something Random

The Castagnas are members of ‘La Renaissance des Appellations’ an invitation only group of biodynamics producers started by Nicolas Joly in 2003.

What's In the Box- April 2023

Master Sommelier Andrey Ivanov explores the wines of Castagna from Beechworth in Victoria.

Joined by our friend Allyson Gorsuch, these two friends talk about everything from living abroad, favorite baseball snacks, and crushing riesling from a bag! But in all seriousness, these two tackle the intimate details of what makes the Castagna wines so great, and what makes the new wave of Australian wine a contender against the great wines of Europe.

These wines were released to the Bliss Wine Imports Club for April 2023. Be sure to follow the link to join the club and see what is featured this month!

Wines Tasted:

  • 2019 Quasibianco Riesling
  • 2019 Adam's Rib Chardonnay with Viognier
  • 2014 Genesis Syrah
  • 2013 Un Segretto Syrah-Sangiovese
  • 2015 Sparkling Genesis Syrah

Castagna Vineyard: Pioneering An Underlying Region 

by Allyson Gorsuch

Beechworth, north of Melbourne and closer to New South Wales, is a fascinating choice for a winemaker to plant his/her mark. That is exactly what Julian and Carolann Castagna decided best. That decision produces some of the best, most unique wines that I have ever had the pleasure of tasting–and it’s in your box!

"These wines are, damn near unavailable outside of Australia." AI, MS


After an illustrious career in film, the couple decided to throw their efforts into wine. From the beginning, they wanted to do so biodynamically, listening to the land. They were forward thinking in Australia as far as imparting this approach. They have since been invited to join the highly revered La Renaissance des Appellations. One of only four wineries included from Australia (there’s only one from the United States,) this is an incredible honor and declaration of their dedication to viticulture, delivering the best grapes for the best wine in the finished product–the wine in your bottle.

 

Castagna Growers’ Selection 2019 Quasibianco (Skin Contact Riesling)

This is Riesling from a surprising area, King Valley, adjacent to Beechworth, that sings with its acidity. To temper the acidity, Castagna uses skin contact, concrete eggs, and neutral oak to create body, while elevating the freshness.

"I,and the entire staff, used to dip our bread in the mustard sauce at the end of the night–
I wish I had this wine then!"- A. Gorsuch

Food pairings:
Ceviche, South Eastern Asian dishes, mustard! I.e, hotdog with mustard and relish or the iconic dish from The Farmhouse Inn–rabbit, rabbit, rabbit, which was covered in a delectable mustard cream sauce.

 

 

Adam’s Rib White Chardonnay with Viognier 2019

A blend of Chardonnay and Viognier–something that only happens in “the land of Oz!” Somehow, the Viognier lifts the Chardonnay without overwhelming it.
It is a beautifully balanced wine.

Food Pairings:
Buttered lobster; corn polenta; Barramundi with a light butter sauce; goat cheese crostini drizzled with honey

 

Un Segreto Sangiovese/Syrah 2013

Sangiovese and Syrah?! What a compelling combination–this wine delivers the black cherry and violets of Sangiovese, and is elevated by the herbs and rusticity of cool climate Syrah.

Food pairings:
Umami! Think fermented foods like kimchi; beef stroganoff;
Mexican BBQ; French onion soup


Genesis Syrah 2014

This is the impetus for Julian and Carolann starting this project! They wanted to make Syrah, in a Cote Rotie fashion, rather than Shiraz. This is the same grape, of course, but stylistically different. Cote Rotie is a cooler climate, so Syrah maintains peppery and herbal notes. When the grape is harvested in warmer climates, it shows juicy fruits–that’s Shiraz. The decision to balk the trend of ripe Syrah again sets the Castagna’s apart.

Food pairings:

All smoked meats, preferably with an aromatic spice

"Food and wine pairings need a bridge, but not a four-lane highway.” AI, MS

 

Bonus wine!

Sparkling Genesis Syrah 2015

Something pretty unique to Australia is quality red sparkling wine. This wine took me by surprise! It has all of the taste markers of Genesis, but it takes it up a notch. It’s serious wine, but it’s refreshing, too. Made just like Champagne, it is exceedingly rare, there are less than 100 bottles in the US. These are just for our friends online.
 

Food Pairings:

Anything on the barbie on a hot day–preferably chilled; beet OR beef tartare
 

“This is a great wine to bring to a party.” AI, MS